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La fibre de lait, nouvel ingrédient de la mode éthique

La fibre de lait, nouvel ingrédient de la mode éthique
Les robes fashions de la marque Mademoiselle Chi Chi sont confectionnées à partir de fibre de lait

Loin des préjugés, il devient de plus en plus possible de concilier mode et respect de l’environnement. Les vêtements éthiques s’invitent désormais sur les podiums des capitales de la mode et les stylistes trouvent de nouveaux moyens pour apporter leur patte verte, entre robes capables de purifier l’air et accessoires de luxe conçus à partir de lances d’incendie recyclées. Il existe aussi, on le sait, tout un florilège de tissus écologiques, mais s’il était une matière encore plus eco-friendly que n’importe quel coton bio, chanvre ou bambou? La marque allemande Mademoiselle Chi Chi vient de faire sensation avec une collection très tendance de robes élaborées à partir… de lait !

L’idée peut paraître surprenante mais ne date pas d’hier… Fabriqués à base de fibres issues de caséine, la protéine du lait, ces tissus ont vu le jour dans les années 1930. Ils ont servi de substitut à la laine – réservée durant la deuxième Guerre Mondiale aux hommes sur le front – mais ont ensuite disparu pour faire place aux tissus synthétiques, alors plus esthétiques et moins chers.

La fibre de lait semble toutefois revenir en grâce. En France par exemple, Baby Dior l’a introduite dans l’une de ses collections il y a quelques années. De même, en Italie, la marque Fabricha a crée la gamme d’écharpes et de t-shirts « You and Milk ». Depuis 2003, Mademoiselle Chi Chi se consacre quant à elle entièrement à la confection de robes en fibre de lait. Celles-ci font actuellement un carton, notamment auprès de célébrités comme l’actrice Mischa Barton.

des vêtements en fibres de lait

A la fois styliste et microbiologiste, Anke Domaske reconnaît avoir dû effectuer avec son équipe « des tests pendant des années avant que l’idée de la recette finale nous vienne à l’esprit. C’est un peu comme faire des expériences culinaires avec les ingrédients que vous trouvez dans votre placard ». La mixture concoctée est ensuite transformée dans un laboratoire, où elle est chauffée puis pressée dans une machine semblable à un hachoir de laquelle ressortent des fils de tissu.

Et bien qu’il n’y ait pas grand chose d’eco-friendly dans le lait en soi [puisqu'issu de la vache, il participe indirectement aux émissions de gaz à effet de serre (GES)], celui utilisé pour fabriquer le tissu est “recyclé”. En effet, de qualité inférieure au lait que l’on trouve dans le commerce, il est normalement destiné à être jeté.

« Nous voyons la fibre de lait comme une alternative au coton. Ce qui fait sa particularité, c’est qu’aucun pesticide ou produit chimique n’est utilisé. De plus, ça ne prend qu’une heure à produire, ce qui le rend d’autant plus respectueux de l’environnement », souligne également la styliste.

Ses robes en fibre de lait sont légères et agréables au toucher. Presque comme de la soie, sauf que ce tissu est plus facile à entretenir puisqu’il peut être lavé normalement. Loin de vouloir réserver ce privilège aux femmes, Anke Domaske planche actuellement sur une collection hommes. Le résultat devrait valoir son pesant de cacahuètes.

Crédits photos : youtube - DW-TV / flickr - www.bluewaikiki.com
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  • lilou

    J’adoooore et j’espère que les marques vont se perfectionner et nous faire de beaux vêtements :)

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