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L’huile de palme clouée au pilori

par Diane Schachinger, Mercredi 2 juin 2010
L’huile de palme clouée au pilori
L’huile de palme est la plus consommée au monde. Ayant mauvaise presse, elle se fait toutefois discrète sur les étiquettes.

Présente dans la plupart des produits que nous mangeons quotidiennement, l’huile de palme est depuis plusieurs mois la cible de vives attaques de la part des ONG et des associations de consommateurs en raison de ses effets néfastes sur la santé et l’environnement. Les industriels ont toutefois bien du mal à se passer de cette huile bon marché qu’ils plébiscitent aussi pour ses propriétés de conservation et de cuisson.

Vous n’avez jamais acheté d’huile de palme ? Détrompez-vous ! D’après une étude britannique réalisée par Les amis de la Terre elle serait présente dans un produit sur dix si vous faites vos courses au supermarché et dans un produit sur deux pour des produits de consommation courante comme les biscuits, les céréales, les pâtes, les gâteaux apéritifs, le pain de mie, le poisson pané ou encore le lait pour bébé.

L’huile de palme est en fait la plus consommée au monde (25%) devant les huiles de soja (24%), de colza (12%) et de tournesol (7%), et pour cause : elle coûte environ 625 euros la tonne à Kuala Lumpur, contre environ 1 000 euros la tonne pour l’huile de tournesol. Un coût attractif qui explique pourquoi la production a été multipliée par huit en 30 ans et a atteint près de 45 millions de tonnes en 2009. Le consommateur semble néanmoins à peine découvrir cette matière première omniprésente dans l’alimentation et les cosmétiques. A sa décharge les étiquettes ne portent que très épisodiquement la mention « huile de palme », souvent remplacée par « huile végétale ou 100% végétale », sans plus de précision.

Un silence coupable

Si la plupart des industriels et des distributeurs préfèrent rester discrets sur l’origine de leur huile, c’est parce que les ONG – Greenpeace en tête – et les associations de consommateurs ont menés des campagnes de mise en garde sur les dangers qu’elle représente, pour la santé notamment, mais aussi pour la planète. Elle est en effet à l’origine d’une déforestation massive en Indonésie, en Malaisie, à Sumatra et à Bornéo, un phénomène dont on sait qu’il favorise aussi le réchauffement climatique et la fragilisation de la biodiversité.

Greenpeace, avec l’appui des internautes, a ainsi attaqué les pratiques de Nestlé à travers une campagne de parodies des pubs Kit Kat et prévoit maintenant de s’attaquer à la banque HSBC qui finance les industriels de l’huile de palme. Parallèlement des sites Internet ont entrepris un recensement des produits « palm free ». A rebours de ces velléités d’ostracisation, la plupart des industriels continuent la politique de l’autruche et refusent plus de transparence.

L’huile de palme n’est pas nocive en soi mais à forte dose. Elle est constituée de 45% de gras saturés (solides à température ambiante), soit trois fois plus que l’huile d’olive. « Consommée sur le très long terme, elle provoque des dépôts de graisse dans les artères, qui grossissent, forment des caillots et favorise les infarctus », décrypte Raphaël Gruman, nutritionniste. L’huile de palme est donc à éviter pour quiconque est en proie à des problèmes cardio-vasculaires. L’alimentation dans les pays développés est par ailleurs déjà trop chargée en gras saturés par rapport aux gras monoinsaturés ou polyinsaturés, or il faut un peu de chaque types de graisses pour que l’organisme trouve l’équilibre nutritionnel, sinon il y a risque d’obésité en plus des problèmes cardiaques.

A petit pas

Désormais exposés sur la place publique, les méfaits de l’huile de palme ont toutefois incité certaines entreprises à prendre l’engagement de ne plus en utiliser dans leurs produits. C’est le cas des marques de cosmétiques comme Lush et Essentiel care, de Findus mais aussi de Casino. Le distributeur a ainsi promis il y a deux mois d’éliminer d’ici la fin de l’année l’huile de la palme de 200 de ses produits alimentaires commercialisés sous marque de distributeur. Le groupe vise sa proscription de la totalité de ses 750 références d’ici 2 à 3 ans, sans que cette mesure n’ait d’incidence sur le prix. Il continuera en revanche à utiliser de l’huile de palme certifiée durable dans les produits non alimentaires, par exemple les cosmétiques.

Le groupe Auchan pourrait emboîter le pas de son concurrent : «Après avoir signé une charte d’engagement de progrès nutritionnel avec le ministère de la Santé, nous avons commencé à travailler cette initiative il y a 2-3 ans », a ainsi déclaré Philippe Imbert, directeur qualité.

Reste qu’il est en réalité difficile d’obtenir et de croire au renoncement des groupes agroalimentaires, les propriétés thermiques et nutritionnelles de l’huile de palme étant uniques. Aux dires de nombreux industriels, l’huile d’arachide provoquerait en outre trop d’allergies et les allergies au lait empêchent l’utilisation du beurre. Le point de fusion serait ainsi plus élevé et idéal pour les fritures. De plus l’huile de palme, solide à température ambiante, serait facilement conservable et transportable, en plus de donner un goût et une texture unique. L’association de lutte contre les maladies cardio-vasculaires Hearst Association s’inquiète quant à elle d’une mise à l’index trop rapide, car « il ne faudrait pas non plus la remplacer par une huile posant des problèmes similaires, comme l’huile de soja, qui est également associée à la déforestation ».

Vers une huile de palme durable ?

A défaut de pouvoir totalement se passer de l’huile aux œufs d’or, les entreprises se tournent vers des fournisseurs dont les exploitations ont été certifiées durable par la RSPO (Roundtable on Sustainable Oil), une association créée en 2004 qui vise à favoriser des méthodes de culture plus respectueuses de l’environnement et des populations locales.

Cette «Table ronde sur la production durable d’huile de palme» a été conjointement organisée par des ONG – dont le WWF – et des industriels comme Unilever. Elle a notamment élaboré des directives qui interdisent les procédés les plus néfastes comme la déforestation de forêts primaires. Sur le plan social, la RSPO devrait contribuer à donner des garanties aux exploitants et petits producteurs locaux comme l’interdiction du travail des enfants.

La première plantation a été labélisée en 2008 et aujourd’hui seulement 5% des huiles de palmes sont estampillées « durables ».  Selon l’association Les amis de la Terre, les critères d’obtention seraient en outre insuffisamment contraignants parce que décidés entre producteurs et industriels. Le porte-parole d’Oxfam souhaite pour sa part que « 50 % du commerce mondial de l’huile de palme soit certifié «durable» d’ici 2013 ». « Les gouvernements, les négociants, les investisseurs, les fabricants, les détaillants et les consommateurs doivent à présent soutenir cette initiative pour qu’elle puisse réussir», estime Adrie Papma, selon laquelle « la RSPO ne réglera cependant jamais les problèmes liés à l’huile de palme (NDLR : le principal étant la non maîtrise de la demande mondiale) mais les petits exploitants et les ouvriers agricoles devraient toutefois pouvoir en profiter ».

Tandis que Casino s’est engagé à progressivement éliminer l’huile de palme du processus de fabrication de ses produits, Nestlé met la pression sur ses partenaires: «Nous avons clairement stipulé par écrit à nos fournisseurs d’huile de palme mélangée, notamment Cargill ou Sinar mas, que nous ne tolérerons pas la présence d’huile en provenance de sources non durables dans nos achats», a indiqué la porte-parole du groupe Mélanie Kohl, qui précise : «Nous nous sommes engagés à nous approvisionner en huile de palme uniquement certifiée durable dès 2015 ».

Une bonne nouvelle pour la planète mais pas pour notre cœur. Seule solution pour limiter les risques sur la santé : exiger plus de transparence dans l’étiquetage et prendre le temps de le lire afin de varier sa consommation d’huile. Mélangée à de l’huile de noix et de soja, on obtiendrait même une huile très équilibrée.

Crédit photo : Flickr - Pixelthing
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  • pierre d

    En effet, c’est une bonne nouvelle pour la planète mais beaucoup moins pour notre coeur.
    Je pense qu’il faudrait plus de transparence sur tous les produits alimentaires. Nous devons savoir ce que nous mangeons et les risques que nous pouvons encourir.

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  • visiteur

    Si vous allez chez Picard, faites attention. Même dans les légumes surgelés, ils ajoutent de l’huile de Palme.
    Un produit fait avec des ingrédient de mauvaise qualité est de la M.. comme disait JP Coffe.
    je ne suis pas d’accord avec 1 produit sur 10. C’est bien plus que cela.
    Ah oui, je voulais ajouter que la déforestation c’est entre 15 et 20% des émissions de CO2. Autant que le transport (voitures, bateaux, camions, avions, trains…)

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